My precious little wine secret

I am a big fan of the wines from the Santa Barbara region. In no small part this is a reflection of my preference for Pinot Noir and Syrah over Cabs and Merlot. It is also a validation of one of the prime grape growing regions in the US.

In California the quest for perfect growing conditions has everything to do with finding a cool micro-climate. In the better known Napa and Sonoma Valleys cooler regions are found close to the bay, such as Carneros where sparkling wine is often made, or Alexander Valley, where cool fog rolls in each morning from the Pacific.

Further south, where it is typically even warmer, it can be hard to find a cool spot to plant. Elevation, a trick also used in the north, can add a cooling factor, as can proximity to the ocean. The problem is that most valleys run north to south, instead of east to west, which would allow the ocean breezes to regulate the temperature of the vineyards.

Most valleys, except a few special ones around Santa Barbara.

The Santa Ynez valley is the home of the charming little Danish town of Solvang. It is also the home of great vineyards, and small, but exquisite wine makers. The adjacent valley, the Santa Maria, houses the bigger names of the region, but it is also host to many small players of outstanding quality.

Au Bon Climat (ABC) is probably the best known of the smaller players, and Cambria, a Kendall Jackson property, is along with Firestone, and Zaca Mesa, among the better known larger producers. But some of the best wine comes from wineries too small to register on the national radar.

These rare wines, along with special offerings from the likes of ABC and another long time favorite, Qupe, are only available once a year, from a single source.

Part of me doesn't want to tell you. I want to keep it a secret for myself, to ensure a long and steady supply of some of the best wines on the planet. Another part of me wants to scream it from the rooftops, so that the world can beat a path to these magnificent wines. The latter inclination has won out, and the shout has been raised.

The Wine Cask is a fine little restaurant and wine store in Santa Barbara proper. The owner, Doug Margerum, has committed himself to the wines of the County. Extolling their virtues, and marketing them at every opportunity, decades before the movie Sidways brought the region to national attention.

The Wine Cask has an annual futures sale that has long been my source for these hard to find treasures. Most of the wines are not particularly expensive, falling into the $30 or under range, but almost all of them are impossible to get anywhere else.

For years I have been saving these wines for my dinner parties, and relishing them in private. I have been loath to let the rest of you in on the secret, for fear that I would not be able to get the wines I covet. In recent years it has been almost impossible to get every one of the items I select, even when I order very early. Syrah in particular is quick to go.

So now that my order is placed, and I am secure in my selection, it is time for you to go forth and make your own picks. Next year you can try to beat me to the punch, but you can be sure I will be getting my order in as quickly as possible,

A few parting words on the concept of wine futures. These wines, from the Wine Cask Futures Offering may take a year, or even longer to receive. They are not bottled yet in most cases, and need time to rest in any event. Bordeaux futures are popular with wine investors, but these futures have more to do with getting wines unavailable any other way, rather than trying to make a buck.

One last final postscript. For the Chardonnay fans out there that are tired of my red wine bias, and constant bashing of their favorite grape - Santa Barbara Chards are the best. The cool, long growing season allows the grapes to fully mature, something rare in the north. The resulting wines are luscious and full of grape, rather than winemaking flavors. So, if you prefer oak and butter over actual fruit, stick to the north. If you want to taste an expression of the grape, try a Chard from Santa Barbara County.