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Friday, March 24, 2006

Why I Hate Their Wine List

A few months ago I wrote about Why I Hate Your Wine List. many of you responded by showing me your wine lists, and well, I hated most of them.

Hate is a strong word, and it is used here more for poetic effect than any actual vehemence. I hate the markup most restaurants charge, I hate the confusion that too many wine lists cause, and I hate the lost opportunity to turn a decent, honest profit while keeping your customers happy. Whew, that is a lot hate. I also hate to watch waiters open the bottle at the table, but that is another rant.

I recently visited The Wine Spot here in Aspen. Before I get into what I didn't like, let me point out that I had a good time, and I do recommend you visit when you are in town. The ambiance is great, with overstuffed chairs and sofas, and several cosy fireplaces.There is a huge selection of wines by the glass to enjoy, and a few nibbles to order.

Their wine program is carefully thought out and shows a purposeful style and direction. Alas, I think that they still make some fundamental mistakes. These are keeping them from realizing greater profits, and a stronger following.

It is great to have a lot of wines by the glass. It is a chance to taste a lot of new wines, and to make comparisons. At least it would be if The Wine Spot offered "flights" of wines.

Other wine bars allow you to order several wines together, each a small pour in an appropriate tasting glass. The wines can be all the same with different vintages (a vertical tasting) or all the same vintage but different producers (a horizontal tasting).

The permutations are endless, but the point is that a wine bar should sell small tastes of several wines at once, and not just a full glass of wine. For the consumer this is a rare opportunity to learn about wines and find new favorites. For the establishment it is a way to sell wine with the highest possible markup, while still offering a great service. Everyone wins.

Food is always nice with a glass of wine, and in Colorado all bars have to prepare some sort of food (we have what is called "tavern licenses"). The Wine Spot has some really tasty treats, unfortunately most of them are very wine unfriendly (the menu on the web site is better than what was offered to me).

Artichokes, vinegars and bitter greens are tough with wine, especially red wine, and it seemed everything had one or the other. We settled on a cheese plate and were disappointed with the lack of variety, and shocked at the ginger laden cheese that ruined our fabulous Zinfandel. We were told that it goes great with Riesling, but we were drinking red wine when we ordered it. At least they had a cheese plate.

While the wine list itself is extensive (and different from what is posted on their site), it is not particularly friendly for the average wine lover. At the risk of offending the good people at The Wine Spot (since I am in so well with them up to this point) the list looks to me like someone is trying to show off. Obscure is preferred over quality, and there is little balance in pricing and styles. It was difficult for me to find a well priced wine, and therefore even harder for the average Jane.

I am all for an impressive list. I am also all for sharing great finds, but in all things balance. A list needs to cater to the client, not just intimidate them. An overwhelming list needs needs an well trained staff to sell it, and while those who created the wine program have impressive bona fides, the bartender when we were there was, well, a bartender.

The Wine Spot gets kudos for just existing. We need more wine bars, and more wine programs that are created with care and thought. We don't need more over hyped, over priced sources of wine intimidation. The Wine Spot is too much the latter for my tastes, but I urge you to visit for yourself and let me know what you think.

Thursday, March 02, 2006

The (un)Usual Suspects

I have a tasting group that has been getting together for over 20 years. Not only have we learned all of each other's jokes and stories, but it is getting pretty hard to come up with fresh ideas for the tasting.

So I recently gave my group a challenge. Bring an "unusual" wine. I didn't define it except to say that it did not have to be unusual to me. I expected cute labels, cute names, hard to find wines, and even a gag bottle or two. And that is exactly what I got.

The first surprise was three bottles of sparkling wine. In all the years we have done a handful of sparkling wine tastings, but it is indeed, unusual. Even more unusual, and delightful, were the three bottles we ended up with.

Roderer Brut Premier, a true Champagne from France.
Avinyo Reserva, a Cava from Spain
Jakob Gerhardt Demi-Sec Rose Sekt, from Germany

This last wine was unusual on many levels. It was not only sparkling, it was pink, and from Germany to boot. It was also quite good.

Two of the wines were chosen specifically for their labels.


  • Rex-Goliath California Merlot, with a 40 lb. rooster on the label

  • 2003 Woody Creek Merlot, with a nice graphic label, but it also gets kudos for being a Colorado wine, and from next door to Aspen as well. The label and location were, alas, better than the wine.



Two more wines made the great name category.


  • 2004 Fat Bastard Shiraz, which to most people's surprise is from France, not Australia.

  • 2004 Goats do Roam from South Africa. The wine pun (Cotes du Rhone being a French wine) was better than the wine itself, which was light, in a beaujolais style.



Two wines were chosen for being good, and white (it being unusual that we drink, much less taste, whites).


  • 2000 Steele Chardonnay, Du Pratt Vineyard

  • 1990 Dom. Orfeuilles Vouvray Moelleux - A slightly sweet Loire wine, with a lot of time on it, and it was still showing well.



A big surprise, considering my friends, is that there ended up being a single gag wine.

Riunite Lambrusco - perhaps not a gag in the larger scope of things, but not the quality of wine usually found at one of my wine tastings.

So, the question begs... Had any unusual wine lately?