Wine Tech Update 06

About a year and a half ago I reported on the then new and growing practice of using barrel alternatives. Putting the oak in the wine, instead of the other way around. There was a perceived stigma to using this technique over more traditional (and vastly more expensive) oak barrels. Back then I had a hard time finding anyone that would admit to even experimenting with barrel alternatives.

Now "everybody" is at least looking at how they can be using oak chips, staves and the myriad other shapes and grinds that oak is available in. When used appropriately, in lesser priced wines, and in conjunction with micro-oxygenation, I am a fan of the concept.

Wine was made more or less the same way for thousands of years. There was a gradual change starting with corked bottles about 200 years ago. The tempo of innovation picked up after Pasteur and the twin wine plagues of the late 19th century. The last half of the 20th century saw advances in winemaking such as stainless steel tanks and computerized controls.

But the last 5 years or so have been a rush of modernization. Bottles now come with screw tops that are better than corks, and some decent wines are now "boxed" instead of bottled. But this is nothing compared to what is just over the horizon.

Less than 200 years ago the mechanism of making wine was shrouded in mystery. Microbiology was not yet a science, and hygiene was wishful thinking. Pasteur changed all that, but superstition and tradition kept microbiology from playing a bigger part in making wine.

Natural yeast was the buzz word a few decades ago. Wine makers often eschewed the addition of yeast, preferring to trust the yeast that tends to grow on the grapes. More than one writer, more expert than I, pointed out that the wine was probably being effected more by yeast in the winery, than by the yeast found on the grapes. In some cases at least, the natural yeast crowd were fooling themselves.

Control is the aim of a larger winery, and the smaller wineries are starting to learn why. The element of chance may yield an occasional great wine, but it is a better business model to shoot for consistency. Controlling the yeast you use is one way to assure a more reliable product.

The choices in yeast have come a long way in the last few years. There were always strains that were more resistant to this or that, or better suited to one application than another, but there is much more to pick from now. Yeast that accentuate one aspect of a wine over another are in the works, and some have already come to market.

You can even use specialized yeast to control some of the undesirable side products of fermentation (such as histamines which occur in all fermented products, but are problematic for asthmatics). This is cutting edge and research has only begun, but the potential is astounding.

Yeast aren't the only micro organisms in a winery, and most of the others are much less desirable. Harsh, and even toxic cleaning solutions have been used to ensure sterility with reasonable success, but ultraviolet light promises to do away with many of those nasty chemicals.

Technology can do more for the wine industry than just make all the wines taste the same (the great fear of technophobes). It can assure healthier, more consistent wines with more complexity and character, all at a more reasonable cost. Today we can dial in the amount of oak, accentuate specific character and even reduce the side effects of wine. What will tomorrow bring?

One thing is sure, I will continue to glance just ahead of the curve, and bring you timely updates.

Sum... Sum... Summertime!

BBQ and beer. Hot dogs, hamburgers, and a beer. Even blue crabs, white corn and beer. The flavors of summer are often accompanied by beer. I like beer, but in case you haven't noticed, this blog is all about wine.

Picnic wine is a term I have been known to use to define some light simple wines. This class can be perfect in the summer, not only outdoors during the day, but with the lighter foods that warm weather often brings. Rieslings often fall into this category, but as I have been harping enough about Rieslings of late, I shall refrain.

Moscato d'Asti is another favorite I have written about more than thrice. This lightly sweet, lightly sparkling, low alcohol charmer from Italy is a great one to know. Several domestic versions are also excellent.

Muscat is also sometimes used in a blend to add sweetness and perfume and add complexity. Caymus' Conundrum is a prime example. A blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Muscat with a splash of Semillon and Viognier. Others make similar blends that rival Conundrum.

Sauvignon Blanc by itself is often a good choice, not only with summer dishes, but all year long when looking for a "universal" white to go with most foods. The Pouilly Fume and Sancerre regions of France make some of my favorite Sauvignon Blanc, but domestic versions tend to be less costly.

Viognier is a fabulous grape. The wines it makes at their best are floral and subtle, with a perfect crisp acidity. At their worst they are thin and boring, and usually expensive. Find one you like (Santa Barbara region has some nice Viognier fruit) and you will remember it.

Viognier is popping up in an increasing number of blends. Not only in the somewhat pricey Conundrum, but in a well priced Chenin Blanc blend you should know about. At almost half the price of Caymus' offering, although admittedly not as complex, the Pine Ridge Chenin Blanc - Viognier is worth checking out.

Chenin Blanc is too often overlooked (although again it seems to be a common subject in my writings). Tart, like a green apple, Chenin is great with the myriad tastes that a BBQ or a Picnic can dish out (pun intended).

The Loire region of France has some nice examples of Chenin Blanc, and by far and away one of the best is another of those secret wines I talk so much about, Coteaux du Layon.

This sweet wine from the Anjou is hard to find, but worth the search, and the money. For a great wine, the cost is not too bad. A 1964, one of the great vintages, and just drinking now (honest, these wines are very long lived) will run you well under $200. Ok, not cheap, but for a 40 year old wine, that is less than average.

Back to picnic wines, as defined not only by style, but price as well. Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris are two clean crisp wines that are worth looking for. I am not a fan of the Italian Pinot Grigio, but Pinot Gris from Alsace or even the Pacific Northwest can be well priced and certainly appropriate for summer activities.

When it comes to light red wines the choices are limited. Pinot Noir is always good with food, but a well priced, light Pinot is harder to find than it used to be. Beaujolais and Cotes du Rhone are the lightest of red wines, and can even be enjoyed slightly chilled.

So when you want to take a break from beer, or you are just a committed wine drinker, it is good to know that you have plenty of options.