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Wednesday, June 06, 2007

25 Years of Wine Tasting in Aspen

Next week is the 25th annual Food&Wine Classic, here in Aspen. Regular readers will remember that I was locked out after 20 years because I can not afford to buy 3 full page ads in Food & Wine Magazine (on top of the exhibitor fees). In between temper tantrums I remind myself that it is all water under the bridge.

If you are one of the lucky ones that are going to be visiting Aspen, come by Stefan Kaelin's (two blocks east of the Main Tent) where I will be signing books. And make sure to read about how to get the most out of the Wine Classic or any tasting. For the rest of you, let me tell you why you aren't missing a thing.

Sour grapes seem appropriate for Wine Whines, but I would like to think I am rising above that, and presenting a list of what to watch out for to organizers of other events.

First and foremost, the Classic has gotten big, really big, huge in fact. That means many bodies jostling for a taste of wine. This has really changed the user experience from the days when one could actually meet and speak to the winemaker. Now you are lucky to get a few words in with whoever is manning the booth, before being elbowed out of the way.

The grassy knoll. The main tasting area for the Wine Classic is in a series of giant tents, placed in the middle of our downtown rugby field. Grass smells fight with the aroma of people and food, but that is not the worst of it. A sprinkle of rain turns the entire affair into a woodstock-like fight for survival. Elegant, well dressed people taking a spill with wine glass in hand may have its slapstick appeal, but it isn't much fun when it happens to you.

Food has always been a big part of the event, so I don't begrudge those that are cooking in the main tents, even if the smells tend to overwhelm the wine. It is the giant automobiles and airlines exhibits that are in the way. I understand that the demographics at wine tastings are attractive, but it does seem to dilute the space that could be used by more food and wine oriented booths.

There didn't used to be hard liquor either. This has really changed how inebriated people tend to get. For those trying to "get their money's worth" this is an easy opportunity to get much more hammered then they ever could on wine alone.

I miss the old Aspen Wine Classic as it was once called. It may not be possible to go back, but anyone planning a wine event would do well to emulate those early days.

The Classic was once small and personal enough that winemakers and winery owners would come themselves. They would be met at the airport and escorted by volunteers, some of who would even host the winemakers in their homes. The loss of these personal touches, and the zoo that the Classic has become means that we are much less likely to see winemakers or owners, than we are to see the same ole sales representatives.

Finally, the cost has become insane. For both the exhibitors and the participants. It has become a celebration of an elitist lifestyle, rather than the joy of food and wine. This is punctuated by the $1,000 price tag.

And for all that, I miss it terribly.

P.S. I have donated a Aspen Wine School course to the online charity auction. You can search for it, and bid on it here.

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