Sunday, August 03, 2008

Hungary, Restaurant Review: Onyx Restaurant

We found a semi precious gem in the middle of Budapest. Onyx Restaurant not only served us a meal on a par with any we have ever had, they managed to do it at a cost that was surprising affordable, amidst a city that is surprisingly not.

Located just a few steps away from the tourist trap district of the Vaci strolling mall, the Onyx is a blend of old and new both in decor and cuisine. Contrasting the staid furnishings a group of LCD monitors displayed vibrant and ever changing abstract images, sort of like a soft focus fractal. I found the effect soothing and a perfect counterpoint to the near stuffy ambiance.

The service was white gloved and attentive, and the staff was knowledgeable and more than eager to share their passion for their craft. I was especially delighted by the wide variety of remarkable local wines available by the glass. As always wine details are saved for readers of the newsletter .

You on the other hand get a look at the seven courses we delighted in.

Leg of Veal Carpaccio with Foie Gras on a Roast Red Bell dressing
A savory treat for foie gras. The flavors were great, although the carpaccio was a bit tough. It was thankfully chopped into strips making it easier to enjoy.

Hungarian Grey Cow Goulash Consomme
A delightful twist on the ubiquitous Goulash Soup of Budapest. Fragrant and perfectly spiced.

Salmon Steak with Jelly, Sweet Potato Cakes with Puy Lentils, and a Cannoli stuffed with Sugar Peas and Radish Curry with Bean chips 
Visually stunning, so much so that I am adding a rare photograph. Each of these tastes are completely different from the other, but moving from one to the next was an exploration in flavors.

Elderberry Sorbet
Sweet, but not too. The ideal refreshment.

Roast Suckling Pig, with Chitterling Ravioli and Beets with Parsley Root Froth and Mini Black Pudding on Leek Bed
Like most Americans Black Pudding (also known as blood sausage) is not a taste I am used to. None the less it was rich and flavorful and went well with the tenderloin and cheek of roast pork. The ravioli and beets gave a respite from the rest of the rich flavors.

Goat Cheese with a Pistachio crust and Dried Sour Cherry Jam
This local goat cheese was as smooth and creamy as any I ever had. It was quite remarkable and perfect after the rich pork dish.

Tainori Chocolate Cake with a taste of 1995 Royal Tokaji Aszu Essencia
Royal Tokaji Essencia is the wine made just from the dried botrysized grapes and is one of the most rare and understandably expensive wines in the world. It is no wonder then that they literally give you a single spoonful of this luscious quaff to accompany the sinfully delicious chocolate cake.

In a city where a continental breakfast start at $20 and goes way up, this 7 course delight, complete with wines that I chose to match ran us only $150 a person. There are few restaurants or experiences I have ever more heartfelty recommended than the Onyx in Budapest.

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