Wednesday, November 19, 2008

Thailand: Winemaking in the Tropics - Alcidini Winery

Some of my favorite Syrah/Shiraz I tasted in Thailand came from a winery that is not yet a winery. Produced in a well maintained, temperature controlled room not much bigger than a large walk-in closet, these wines were carefully handcrafted with low tech, off the shelf equipment that wasn't even really made for wine making.

Such is the ingenuity of Supot Krijpipudh, the one man tour de force of what someday will become Alcidini Winery. At 20 acres of mostly Shiraz, with a few rows of Muscat Blau thrown in, the vineyards are not huge, but they are thriving under the careful scrutiny of one of the most innovative wine personalities I have ever met.

Supot is an engineer, and his penchant for experimentation shows not only in his superb wines, but in his careful attention to detail in the vineyard. His vines were the only ones I saw that use the Lyre system of trellising in Thailand. A system advocated by Richard Smart, the Australian who revolutionized vineyard management.

Geneva Double Curtain (GDC) is a more common system, and Supot has not abandoned it either. Instead he is using GDC on the bottom half of his vines. This odd combination of trellising is due to one of his more unusual experiments. Supot is hoping to grow two grape varieties on the same trunk. Shiraz on the top, Muscat on the bottom.

The thinking is that with the potential for two harvests a year in tropical Thailand, but greater quality from limiting the vines to one fruiting, he can have the best of both worlds. The Shiraz will do its thing on the top, and then six months later Muscat will be harvested from the bottom.

Time will tell if this works out, but I am intrigued to say the least. If he manages to make it come to pass there may be a quiet revolution in vineyard management from this tiny corner of Thailand. If not, well Supot is only having fun and isn't committing many resources to the project.

Alcidini has only produced enough wine for a few friends and family, albeit very loyal ones that bought out his entire 1500 bottle run last year. This year he is looking at a more commercial output of 5,500 bottles which while still tiny, puts him in line with many others in the boutique winery class. He will continue to ramp up over the next few years.

It may be decades before you get an opportunity to visit the winery, which for now is just that tiny shed and a house with a view that is still under construction. In the future if you happen to get a chance to get a hold of one of the Alcidini Wines, go out of your way to try it.

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