Monday, November 10, 2008

Thailand: Winemaking in the Tropics - Part 2

Wow. I have just come back from visiting one small corner of the Thai wine making industry, and I am really quite impressed. With tropical grape growing changing all of the rules, these hearty mavens have managed to beat all the odds and produce world class wines in a monsoon climate.

To be fair, I was pretty impressed with India's efforts as well, so it shouldn't have come as much as a shock as it did. In India I didn't have a chance to tour the vineyards, an oversight I hope to correct in the not to distant future. Seeing the Thai vines in person was an enlightening experience.

I saw well tended row after row of primarily young vines which were already producing decent enough fruit to make outstanding wines. I also saw older vines that while only in their teens, were capable of churning out reserve quality grapes, year after year.

I also witnessed the heartbreak of a 30% loss of crop due to the unusually long rainy period that has yet to subside. The immature grapes were devastated by Powdery Mildew (Oidium) leaving behind fruitless vines and dashed hopes.

In the coming series of reports I will relate the tales of four commercial wineries, each with a slightly different approach to success. One who avails themselves of a little help from France, one who is creating a Grand Cru style estate, another who has found the balance between tourism and quality, and finally a large concern who's wine cooler business helps them afford to take chances on their premium wines.

I also found one producer who has yet to turn commercial, but his highly inventive nature has led him to experiment with ideas that push the envelope of vineyard management. While his vintages to date have only yielded enough wine for friends and family (a mere 1000 bottles) his wines were among the finest I have tasted in Thailand.

In no small part my trip was especially memorable for the company I kept. Not only the incredibly generous winery owners and staff, but by the presence of the hard working and eminently impressive Denis Gastin.

Denis is a wine writer from Australia who's tireless efforts on behalf of the Asian wine industry are an inspiration. Expect to see more about Asia on my web site in the coming months, as I elevate this continent's visibility to the status it deserves.

In the minds of many, not to mention my own, Asia is not a player in the world wine scene. This is simply wrong, and it is high time everyone knew about it.

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